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Hosay, and a Muharram Observance the Whole Street Joins

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Hosay, and a Muharram Observance the Whole Street Joins

Hosay is the Trinidadian observance of Muharram, the Shia commemoration of the killing of Husayn, grandson of the Prophet, at Karbala. The name is a rendering of his. It came with indentured labourers from north India, where the building and processing of the taziya replica tomb was already the popular form of the observance, and it took root principally in St James in Port of Spain and in Cedros.

The central objects are the tadjah, large and elaborately worked structures of bamboo, paper and tinsel built over weeks by families who hold the right to build them, together with two moons, crescents of red and green representing Husayn and his brother Hasan. The nights are sequenced: a night for the flags, a night for the small tadjah, then the large tadjah, then the moons, accompanied by tassa drumming that has become a Trinidadian musical form in its own right.

What distinguishes Hosay from Muharram elsewhere is who takes part. Hindus have participated since the indentureship period, and Afro Trinidadians have too, so a Shia commemoration is carried through the streets by a mixed crowd. That has produced criticism from some Muslim quarters, on the ground that a mourning rite should not become a festival with spectators, and the organising families have generally defended it as a mourning observance that others are welcome to attend.

The colonial state read it as disorder. In October 1884, after processions were banned from entering San Fernando, troops fired on the crowd and around twenty two people were killed, an event known as the Hosay Riots or the Muharram Massacre. The processions were later permitted again and have continued since.

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