Kashmir has been contested between India and Pakistan since 1947, and the religious life of the valley cannot be described apart from that, because access to the sites is itself administered as a security question.
The Amarnath cave, high in the mountains southeast of Srinagar, holds an ice formation that grows and shrinks with the season and is venerated as a linga. The pilgrimage to it lasts several weeks each summer, draws hundreds of thousands of people, and is run by a statutory board created by legislation in 2000. The route passes through militarised country and the yatra travels under heavy protection, in convoys, with the road closed to other traffic. Pilgrims have been attacked more than once.
A dispute in 2008 over transferring forest land to the shrine board for pilgrim facilities produced mass protests in the valley and counter-protests in Jammu, and the order was withdrawn and then partly reinstated. The episode showed how a question about a few dozen hectares becomes a question about demography and control.
The Vaishno Devi shrine in Jammu is governed by a similar board created in 1988 and receives even larger numbers. Both cases show a pattern the atlas records elsewhere too: where a shrine sits inside a political dispute, the state ends up managing the pilgrimage, and the management becomes part of the dispute.